But not just any fry: the Belgian fries and beignet doughnuts (pronounced ben-YAY) at this swanky lunch-stop are all brought to realization in, yes, duck fat. There are allegations of it being a healthier, good-for-you kind of bad, but I don’t think it's serious enough to spoil the fun. Fries and beignets are served in simple paper cones to make them far too easy to tote to the street. But the coterie of dipping sauces will slow down your progress. Choose: truffle ketchup, horseradish mayo, curry mayo, Raye’s sweet and spicy mustard, roasted garlic mayo, Thai chili mayo, malt vinegar, or homemade duck gravy with fries. Beignets come as powdered sugar, spiced sugar, spicy chocolate sauce, or cinnamon sugar.

 

Or you can wait for precious seating in the small but streamlined eating space, right in front of the counter. You’re never more than a “hey” from the register where all the orders are placed (should you need to add to your tab). And there’s Coffee By Design, beers on tap, and a small bar to help you drag things out. In a slight cultural curve ball, you can order Orange Scented Churros (Spanish style crullers) with spicy chocolate dipping sauce for desert. And the toast-and-jam selection—blueberry, fig, strawberry, pb&j—with marscarpone paired with the shop’s early hours, low lighting and huge front windows, coffee and beer, delightfully confuse what meal (breakfast? lunch? dinner?) you're about to commit.  

 

Other more bonafide meals will make equally strong impressions: a duck confit of raisin-mustard chutney ($9), homemade meatloaf with cheddar, pickled red onion, & horseradish mayo ($8), and veggie ratatouille ($7.5). The Duckfat Poutine ($8—layers of Belgian fries topped with Maine cheese curd and duck gravy) refuses to be ignored. Also, homemade ginger, peach, and mint sodas cannot not be passed over. Really, the place is flat out polished—like its counters and shiny, high-standing tables—but it doesn’t demand more attention or cash than a quick, sandwich pit-stop. It should be said, this little slice of Belgium-in-Maine is not slick or fake; it really does have local substance. In fact, all potatoes are furnished by a Maine farm in Aroostock. Unusual, accomplished, and low-maintenance, Duckfat makes for a good date. Something, I would say, to flap tongues about.

 

HOURS: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (207) 774.8080.